Mexico: A Country in Hiding
Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 19
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 30
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 32
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 33
Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 19
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 30
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 32
Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /homepages/45/d96268876/htdocs/elmundo/wp-includes/functions.php on line 33
9 January 2009
As I walked up the metro stairs and begin to see my first Mexican sky, a feeling of deja vu came rushing over me. Never in my life had I been to Mexico, but I remember a similar experience walking out of the metro in Madrid in the Puerta del Sol. On that day, I came to the realization I was actually alone, in Spain, pursuing a dream of progressing my Spanish language skills and becoming more worldly. My family and friends were thousands of miles away, and I didn’t know anyone. What a feeling of freedom. I guess we call that the ‘travel bug.’
Upon reaching the Mexico City center, I was dumbfounded at the sheer size of the Zocalo. This massive,
paved square is considered to be the largest in the Western Hemisphere. History has it marked as the center of Mexico-Tenochtitlan, or the capital of the Aztec Empire. A Mexican flag of enormous size was flying proudly in the middle of the expansive area as if to welcome visitors and say, “Viva Mexico!”
The Metropolitan Cathedral, at the north end of the Zocalo, is an impressive Spanish Baroque style church that was finished in 1813. As I walked toward the church, I noticed locals dressed in Native American garb and dancing in circles, swaying balls releasing black smoke. These were people trained to either heal you of your problems or take your money and make you believe you were a new person. Either way, there were plenty of people clouded with black smoke and hands in the air, thanking God for whatever redemption they desired.
I was in Mexico!
Teotihuacan was our first destination on what was to become an adventure of culture, food, and most of all resiliance. As we arrived by bus, the ruins’ silence surrounded us. An eirie sense of history took hold of me, and I was ready to see some of the most famous pyramids this planet has to offer. Walking past the entrance, the land opens up and accepts its visitors with open arms. Stone stairs were all around us, and small pyramids shot out of the ground. As we walked to the top of one of the pyramids, off in the distance I saw it. El Pyramide del Sol, or the Sun Pyramid. It jetted toward the sky and seemed to be watching over the other pyramids like a demonstrative parent. The closer we got, the more mythological it seemed. I’m sure the ancient people of this region purposely constructed it this way.
We made our way to the top of the Sun Pyramid with some difficulty. It was steeper than expected, but well worth the effort. Sitting along the top’s edge, with our legs hanging over, we looked out at the world below. Large mountains, small houses, and a easily misunderstood history were laying at our feet. I wonder what the Aztec’s of thousands of year ago felt when they were overlooking this beautiful land? Breath-taking doesn’t do it justice.
Later that evening, our last one in Mexico City, we went to a restaurant at an international hostel to meet up with other travelers. As everyone sat and chatted about Mexico City, it was suggested we go to the roof bar to take in the view of the Zocalo and the Cathedral. Walking out on the rooftop was an eye-opener. I was overlooking one of the most famous squares in the world where presidents gave speeches and peace rally’s frequently occurred. History buff or not, I couldn’t help but be in awe.
After Mexico City, we decided to head over to Puebla. The city, widely known as the home of the chocolate
sauce called mole, was vibrant and lively. With no food in my stomach, and mole on the brain, we stopped at a little place called Angelopolis. The owner came out to greet us, and she sat us down in front of the kitchen. This restaurant was covered with tiles from the floor to the tables and walls. The chairs were blue, the tables white with painted tiles and the walls were covered with cultural emblems from long ago. We filled our belly’s with mole poblano (chicken en mole sauce) and chiles en nogada (pepper with walnut sauce) before heading out to explore what Puebla had to offer.
This city’s zocalo was much smaller, but had a life that Mexico City’s only dreamt. There were young people sitting around its edge, holding hands and kissing. Elders sat on benches under trees. Families walked around the park, laughing and chatting. All around the Zocalo, there were restaurants with outdoor seating and people drinking and sharing food. Puebla had an aura that gave the impression of family and love, mainly for a community that seemed so happy and enjoyed life to the fullest.
The next morning, my friend and I took a side trip over to a nearby city called Cholula. This small gem is home to the worlds largest pyramid (by volume) known as the Great Pyramid of Cholula. We were dropped off in the center of the city, and after several attempts, found our way to the ancient grounds. At the top is a church with a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and neighborhoods. Castles, Army barracks, and churches were strung along in the city’s center. Interesting thing about the pyramid is that it can’t be seen from the outside with the exception of a set of stairs. With a guesstimated over 5 miles of excavated tunnels running through the inside of the massive hill, I wondered how societies starting 2,000 years ago could construct such a feet. Inside the tunnels were dungeons, hiding places and rooms that looked to be places used to interrogate visitors. Were there executions? Prisons? Famous meetings of Aztec leaders? I guess we’ll never know.
After Publa and Cholula, the next stop was Cuernavaca, which lies about 1.5 hours south of Mexico City.
Cuernavaca is a haven for Spanish language learning, and it showed, as many Americans were walking the streets. Home to the founder of Mexico itself, Hernan Cortes, the city’s ambience was that of profound color and Mexican culture uniquely its own. From hilly streets and family owned bakeries to a lively Zocalo, Cuernavaca was enriched with life. Unlike Mexico City, Cuernavaca’s residents and visitors were outside at markets, eating on patios and dancing in the city center. Not what we expected, but a true treat.
During our stay in Cuernavaca, we took another side trip, and what a trip it was! Tepoztlan, uncluding mountaintop pyramid Tepozteco, was an experience I’ll never forget. Seemingly cut off from the rest of civilization, the city had a ruralness and historical feel this writer had never experienced. It was almost as if Tepoztlan was lost in time. With one major street - and by major I mean the bus could squeeze onto it - and no street lights, Tepoztlan was an almost forgotten community. As we walked down the street, heading for the mountain pass to take us up the 2 km hike to Tepozteco, I realized how difficult it would be for most of my fellow Americans to adjust to life in a community devoid of many restaurants, sports teams, malls, coffee shops or any other luxury we take for granted. How difficult would it be for me? Could I adjust? Kind of makes me think.
It took about 50 minutes to hike to the top of the mountain containing Tepozteco, but well worth the lack of air in our lungs. As we reached the summit, and looked over the edge at Tepoztlan below, a feeling of accomplishment came over me. What a view! We could see for miles, including the surrounding mountains, city church, and fresh food market at the other end of the city. Interestingly, the pyramid itself was only about eight feet tall. Not the most impressive of structures, but with the intent of allowing the indigenous people to watch for invading army’s, it served its purpose to perfection.
Once we made it back down to Tepoztlan, the fresh food market was the only thing on my mind. What an experience the market was with its different Mexican food dishes, vegetables, fruits, and elderly workers that looked like they came over on the ship with Cortes. I knelt down next to a lady selling plums for 10 Mexican pesos - 1 American dollar - for a full bag. It was as if this elderly woman, and several other workers in the market, hadn’t seen an American in their long lives. I gave her the money, with a little extra, and she thanked me with youthful exuberance.
Before our Mexican adventure, I didn’t really know what to expect from a world looked down upon by its closest adversaries. Our trip to Mexico was a mixture of the unexpected and the adventurous. In many ways, the country was uplifting and full of life with its bright colors, outdoor patios, and busy streets. Unfortunately poverty still rears its ugly head in both the rural and urban communities, but this holds true in most countries around the world. In experiencing many great things Mexico had to offer, I left with a feeling of accomplishment in reaching a goal of discovering it, but also a feeling of unrest for its poorer areas and how it could be improved. The one thing that stuck out was how happy with life mostly everyone seemed. Maybe they really are better off than we perceive them, or maybe they just don’t know any better.
That’s what makes Mexico, well Mexico.
english
español