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As I walked up the metro stairs and begin to see my first Mexican sky, a feeling of deja vu came rushing over me. Never in my life had I been to Mexico, but I remember a similar experience walking out of the metro in Madrid in the Puerta del Sol. On that day, I came to the realization I was actually alone, in Spain, pursuing a dream of progressing my Spanish language skills and becoming more worldly. My family and friends were thousands of miles away, and I didn’t know anyone. What a feeling of freedom. I guess we call that the ‘travel bug.’

Upon reaching the Mexico City center, I was dumbfounded at the sheer size of the Zocalo. This massive, paved square is considered to be the largest in the Western Hemisphere. History has it marked as the center of Mexico-Tenochtitlan, or the capital of the Aztec Empire. A Mexican flag of enormous size was flying proudly in the middle of the expansive area as if to welcome visitors and say, “Viva Mexico!”

The Metropolitan Cathedral, at the north end of the Zocalo, is an impressive Spanish Baroque style church that was finished in 1813. As I walked toward the church, I noticed locals dressed in Native American garb and dancing in circles, swaying balls releasing black smoke. These were people trained to either heal you of your problems or take your money and make you believe you were a new person. Either way, there were plenty of people clouded with black smoke and hands in the air, thanking God for whatever redemption they desired.

I was in Mexico!

Teotihuacan was our first destination on what was to become an adventure of culture, food, and most of all resiliance. As we arrived by bus, the ruins’ silence surrounded us. An eirie sense of history took hold of me, and I was ready to see some of the most famous pyramids this planet has to offer. Walking past the entrance, the land opens up and accepts its visitors with open arms. Stone stairs were all around us, and small pyramids shot out of the ground. As we walked to the top of one of the pyramids, off in the distance I saw it. El Pyramide del Sol, or the Sun Pyramid. It jetted toward the sky and seemed to be watching over the other pyramids like a demonstrative parent. The closer we got, the more mythological it seemed. I’m sure the ancient people of this region purposely constructed it this way.

We made our way to the top of the Sun Pyramid with some difficulty. It was steeper than expected, but well worth the effort. Sitting along the top’s edge, with our legs hanging over, we looked out at the world below. Large mountains, small houses, and a easily misunderstood history were laying at our feet. I wonder what the Aztec’s of thousands of year ago felt when they were overlooking this beautiful land? Breath-taking doesn’t do it justice.

Later that evening, our last one in Mexico City, we went to a  restaurant at an international hostel  to meet up with other travelers. As everyone sat and chatted about Mexico City, it was suggested we go to the roof bar to take in the view of the Zocalo and the Cathedral. Walking out on the rooftop was an eye-opener. I was overlooking one of the most famous squares in the world where presidents gave speeches and peace rally’s frequently occurred. History buff or not, I couldn’t help but be in awe.

After Mexico City, we decided to head over to Puebla. The city, widely known as the home of the chocolate sauce called mole, was vibrant and lively. With no food in my stomach, and mole on the brain, we stopped at a little place called Angelopolis. The owner came out to greet us, and she sat us down in front of the kitchen. This restaurant was covered with tiles from the floor to the tables and walls. The chairs were blue, the tables white with painted tiles and the walls were covered with cultural emblems from long ago. We filled our belly’s with mole poblano (chicken en mole sauce) and chiles en nogada (pepper with walnut sauce) before heading out to explore what Puebla had to offer.

This city’s zocalo was much smaller, but had a life that Mexico City’s only dreamt. There were young people sitting around its edge, holding hands and kissing. Elders sat on benches under trees. Families walked around the park, laughing and chatting. All around the Zocalo, there were restaurants with outdoor seating and people drinking and sharing food. Puebla had an aura that gave the impression of family and love, mainly for a community that seemed so happy and enjoyed life to the fullest.

The next morning, my friend and I took a side trip over to a nearby city called Cholula. This small gem is home to the worlds largest pyramid (by volume) known as the Great Pyramid of Cholula. We were dropped off in the center of the city, and after several attempts, found our way to the ancient grounds. At the top is a church with a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and neighborhoods. Castles, Army barracks, and churches were strung along in the city’s center. Interesting thing about the pyramid is that it can’t be seen from the outside with the exception of a set of stairs. With a guesstimated over 5 miles of excavated tunnels running through the inside of the massive hill, I wondered how societies starting 2,000 years ago could construct such a feet. Inside the tunnels were dungeons, hiding places and rooms that looked to be places used to interrogate visitors. Were there executions? Prisons? Famous meetings of Aztec leaders? I guess we’ll never know.

After Publa and Cholula, the next stop was Cuernavaca, which lies about 1.5 hours south of Mexico City. Cuernavaca is a haven for Spanish language learning, and it showed, as many Americans were walking the streets. Home to the founder of Mexico itself, Hernan Cortes, the city’s ambience was that of profound color and Mexican culture uniquely its own. From hilly streets and family owned bakeries to a lively Zocalo, Cuernavaca was enriched with life. Unlike Mexico City, Cuernavaca’s residents and visitors were outside at markets, eating on patios and dancing in the city center. Not what we expected, but a true treat.

During our stay in Cuernavaca, we took another side trip, and what a trip it was! Tepoztlan, uncluding mountaintop pyramid Tepozteco, was an experience I’ll never forget. Seemingly cut off from the rest of civilization, the city had a ruralness and historical feel this writer had never experienced. It was almost as if Tepoztlan was lost in time. With one major street - and by major I mean the bus could squeeze onto it - and no street lights, Tepoztlan was an almost forgotten community. As we walked down the street, heading for the mountain pass to take us up the 2 km hike to Tepozteco, I realized how difficult it would be for most of my fellow Americans to adjust to life in a community devoid of many restaurants, sports teams, malls, coffee shops or any other luxury we take for granted. How difficult would it be for me? Could I adjust? Kind of makes me think.

It took about 50 minutes to hike to the top of the mountain containing Tepozteco, but well worth the lack of air in our lungs. As we reached the summit, and looked over the edge at Tepoztlan below, a feeling of accomplishment came over me. What a view! We could see for miles, including the surrounding mountains, city church, and fresh food market at the other end of the city. Interestingly, the pyramid itself was only about eight feet tall. Not the most impressive of structures, but with the intent of allowing the indigenous people to watch for invading army’s, it served its purpose to perfection.

Once we made it back down to Tepoztlan, the fresh food market was the only thing on my mind. What an experience the market was with its different Mexican food dishes, vegetables, fruits, and elderly workers that looked like they came over on the ship with Cortes. I knelt down next to a lady selling plums for 10 Mexican pesos - 1 American dollar - for a full bag. It was as if this elderly woman, and several other workers in the market, hadn’t seen an American in their long lives. I gave her the money, with a little extra, and she thanked me with youthful exuberance.

Before our Mexican adventure, I didn’t really know what to expect from a world looked down upon by its closest adversaries. Our trip to Mexico was a mixture of the unexpected and the adventurous. In many ways, the country was uplifting and full of life with its bright colors, outdoor patios, and busy streets.  Unfortunately poverty still rears its ugly head in both the rural and urban communities, but this holds true in most countries around the world. In experiencing many great things Mexico had to offer, I left with a feeling of accomplishment in reaching a goal of discovering it, but also a feeling of unrest for its poorer areas and how it could be improved. The one thing that stuck out was how happy with life mostly everyone seemed. Maybe they really are better off than we perceive them, or maybe they just don’t know any better.

That’s what makes Mexico, well Mexico.

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The liberal and cultural mecca of Texas, Austin has a unique charm all it’s own. With a Hispanic population lingering around 30%, and containing one of the largest universities in the country, the city’s mindset is an interesting combination of culture and youth. With a vibrant feel and outdoor mentality, Austin attracts people from all walks of life who flock here to live what many consider a more fulfilling lifestyle.

From Lake Travis and Town Lake (aka Lady Bird Lake) to the rolling Texas hill-country and its wine regions, Austin is a great place for people of all ages looking to enjoy the up-beat nightlife, variety of hike & bike trails, great outdoor patios, and endless number of music venues. Outsiders are drawn here because of Austin’s reputation for music and its affordability. But if you are looking for something else, the city radiates energy with its growing number of eccentric restaurants and abundance of festivals. As Austinites say, “Whatever you want, Austin has.”

A Little Piece of History

Austin was founded in 1835 while Texas was still considered part of Mexico. The original village was called Waterloo before Steven F. Austin came along and aided in the colonization of Austin with the local Native Americans and the Anglos. In 1839, a plan was put in place where land was set aside for the Capital Building, downtown streets, and for what is now the University of Texas at Austin (although the school wasn’t built and didn’t officially open until 1883). The first train arrived in Austin on Christmas Day in 1871 to great cheers from the locals.

Around the turn of the century, a damn was built to control the flow of water on the Colorado River. Soon after, heavy rains fell, causing the water levels to rise roughly 11 feet. The dam couldn’t withstand the pressure and gave way, allowing the rushing water to enter downtown Austin, killing nearly 50 people. Soon after the damn was rebuilt, the city extended the street-car line into South Austin, paving the way for further development.

In 1966, Austin became well known for an event that would put the city on the map. Charles Whitman, climbed to the top of the University of Texas Tower, overlooking campus and shot 14 people below. Whitman’s act of terror holds a place in University of Texas lore, even to this day.

Music & Events

Musicians from around the globe showcase their talents during two of the most famous music festivals in the world. Come in late September to catch the likes of Foo Fighters, Beck, Manu Chao, The Black Keys, Blues Traveler, Ben Harper and many others at Austin City Limits (ACL) in Zilker Park. It’s an outdoor event full of food, drinks, and all of the music you can muster. South by South West (SXSW) is another Austin music and film festival commencing in March every year. This festival is a bit different, as most of the music venues in the city are taken over by musicians rather than the festival being staged in a park. Be ready with your water, energy bars, and a good bit of cash because both of these festivals are several days of all out fun! Austinites – or at least the people that now call Austin home – call their city ‘The Live Music Capital of the World’ for a reason. Spend some time here and you will understand why.

Austin is full of venues where you can find live music every day of the year. There are literally hundreds of bars, pubs, music halls, outdoor patios, restaurants, and even coffee shops, where music can be heard. One such place, the Saxon Pub, has been home to some of the best musicians Austin has to offer including the ageless Willie Nelson and newcomer Bob Schneider. You can find Bob still playing there on a weekly basis. Saxon is a little dive bar with a small stage and seats so close that a musician will often interact with the patrons and have personal conversations. Carolyn Wonderland is also a household name in Austin, and she plays her funky, upbeat music at Saxon regularly.

For those Jazz and Blues fans - and there are many of them due to the large southern Louisiana population – the Elephant Room on Congress just south of the capital building is a great place to catch some local Jazz and Blues artists. It has a sort of dungeon feel as it’s dark and cozy. Great place to bring a date or hang out with friends.

The first Thursday of every month, Austin throws a huge celebration with music, food, drinks, and arts & crafts. What do they call it? Well, First Thursday, of course. Walk down South Congress and you’ll pass Guerros, which has a great outdoor music venue and outside bar. You can often find a good deal for $1 Tecate’s and listen to some good, local music. One of the best kept secrets in Austin is the outdoor patio at Botticelli’s, which is across the street from Guerros. From first glance, it looks like a nice, Italian restaurant. But, make your way to the back, and you’ll find local no-name artists plying their trade on a small stage. OH yeah, don’t forget to try the Italian Beef Sandwich “Chicago Style.” You can get it juicy or dry with sweet or hot peppers, and the garlic parmesan chips are out of this world. Before the night is over, go listen to Seth Walker at the Continental Club, a few bars down from Botticelli’s. Get your dancing shoes on because Seth’s smooth sound will get you moving!

A Few Must-Do’s

Take a walk down Old Pecan Street - more commonly known as 6^th Street or Little Bourbon to the locals – and you will find bars, shops, and some very eclectic individuals. If you’re lucky enough to be here in early May or late September be sure to check out the Old Pecan Street Festival with music, arts & crafts, and some of the best food and drinks around. Hang around at night and take awalk through the Driskill Hotel. Built in 1886, the Driskill was known as one of the best hotels in the country, holding government balls and special events for newly elected public officials. Take a stroll inside and the history can be felt with the large columns, marble floors, and massive staircases. Have a seat in the 1886 Café and Bakery for a cup of coffee with the jalapeno corn biscuits or waffles with blackberry jam, toasted pecans, and bananas. With pastry chef Tony Sansalone, and his wonderful creations, you will leave fat and happy.

Austinites love keeping it weird. In fact, that’s the city slogan. A lot of “hippies” reside here and you can find several places that are very “Austin-ish.” Wake up one morning and head over to Bouldin Creek Coffeehouse on South First Street. They have a great vegan menu and outdoor seating area to plug your laptop in and people watch. If you’re into the old board games such as Sorry or Connect Four, Bouldin is a must do. You may actually run into Leslie, and if you don’t know Leslie, ask an Austinite. I don’t think there’s one who doesn’t know him.

After a relaxing cup of coffee at Bouldin, head on over to a restaurant called Freddie’s. It’s a nice little walk a few blocks south. Feel free to bring your puppy as they are dog friendly. In fact, they will cook your dog a hamburger if you want them to. Come on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday because Freddie’s has free, smoked brisket till it’s gone. Also, be fortunate enough to catch a washers tournament and you’ll see some highly competitive people battling in good fun.

For a fun dinner, head over to Barton Springs Boulevard and grab a table at Shady Grove. They have one of the best patios in Austin and not a bad margarita either! Catch em’ on Thursday and you’ll see some live music as well. On any other day - besides Thursday - sit facing away from the street and you can watch old cartoons from the 60’s and 70’s on the big screen over the trailer in the parking lot. Hang around long enough and you might see Mathew McConahey and Lance Armstrong grabbing a bite. Don’t forget to ask about the special cobbler of the day. The blackberry is wonderful. Shady never disappoints!

An absolute must is to head over to Barton Springs pool for a dip in the year-round 65 degree water. It’s a natural spring fed portion of the Colorado River that feeds into Town Lake (also known as Lady Bird Lake after the late Lady Bird Johnson, former first lady and wife of Lindon B). Locals show up during the day to sunbathe on the sloping hill facing the pool or lounge around in the water. But the best time is to go after 9:00 p.m. because it’s free and that’s when you will see the true Austines come out. Swimmer’s bring guitars, drums and whatever else they can get their hands on, and it’s a flat-out party!

If a pitcher of beer, a pizza, a malt or maybe even a jack and coke without leaving the comfort of your own seat is your idea of a great movie experience, then the Alamo Drafthouse is the place for you. With a menu full of beer, appetizers, pizzas, sandwiches, desserts and lots of other goodies, who wouldn’t be happy watching a movie while being served whatever you wanted? Also, there are often “sing-a-long’s” where a patron can sing their favorite songs from the 80’s or 90’s, or special events such as last years Simpson’s the Movie showing. With Buzz Cola and donuts with pink icing and sprinkles, my Simpson’s and Alamo Drafthouse experience was second to none!

Last, but certainly not least, a drive out to Lake Travis is in order for any visitor curious about the landscape. Driving through the hill-country is always an adventure and worth doing on a not so busy afternoon. Check out a restaurant called Oasis. It has the best view in Austin with its panoramic shot of Lake Travis 450 feet below. Stick with the view only as there are much better places for food in Austin.

The Munchies!

Uchi is widely considered the best restaurant in Austin because the freshness of the sushi and famous restaurateurs. Stay here long enough and you could see the likes of Will Ferrell or Owen Wilson. For those of us on more of a budget, there is one restaurant that I always recommend to fellow Austinites that seems to fly under the radar. It’s called Buenos Aires Café  , and it’s the only Argentinean café in the city. The empanadas will make any food lover drool and leave you wanting more. Try the Carne Picante - if spicey is your thing - and I guarantee you will be thanking me for turning you on to this place. And if you like crème brulee as much as I do, go for the Dark Chocolate Crème Brulee. It has a little kick of cayenne pepper to add some spice. Will make you want to learn Spanish, guaranteed!

For those Cajun food lovers, head on over to Evangeline Cafe in South Austin. The owner is from Lake Charles, Louisiana, and he knows what Cajun food is all about. Start out with the Oysters Contraban, which are fried oysters over chips with a spicey house sauce. Add a crawfish stuffed pistolette and you’ll wonder what you’ve been missing all your life. Save some room for the Grilled Shrimp Poyboy, and be sure to add grilled peppers and sautéed onions. MMMM!!! Grab one of many Abita beers including Purple Haze or Turbodog, and you will feel like you are back in New Orlenas on Bourbon Street!

Austin is known for its Sunday brunches. Moonshine has one of the best brunches in town due to the vast array of food choices on its buffet. Brunch starts at 10:00, and you need to get there early or you won’t be eating any time soon. Don’t forget to taste the mimosas and the little known Slice of Iceberg Salad with bacon, blue cheese, tomato, and candied pecans. It’s a little slice of heaven!

Let’s not leave out the authentic Mexican food and Texas’ own Tex-Mex. El Sol y La Luna – on south Congress Street close to Guerros – has some of the best tacos the city has to offer. If authenticity is your thing, this is place for you. Also, try a place called Torchy’s on South First Street or the one downtown next to Lil Woodrow’s on West 6^th Street. Ask if they have the fried cookie dough. Need I explain more?

Polvo’s is widely considered one of the best places to enjoy a restaurant experience, and is not far away from Boldin Creek on South First Street. With city-renowned margaritas and a menu including everything from mole enchiladas and ceviche to veggie soup, Polvo’s provides a great atmosphere and feels a little like Mexico. Make sure you check out the salsa bar because you can try a roasted tomato or green chile salsa that will knock your socks off! If you are a shrimp fan, order the Camaron Diablos and enjoy! Take the opportunity to practice your Spanish as most of the waiters are from Latin America and love it when patrons make the effort. They’ll also probably laugh at how bad ur accent will be, but it’s all in good fun.

Making the Rounds

Austin prides itself on being pedestrian friendly, although many people have cars and use the bus systems due to the size of the city and lack of a metro. Getting around is easy on a bike from South Austin to downtown and campus of the University of Texas. On a daily basis, you can see mountain bikers with their camelbacks entering and exiting the greenbelts, cyclists on their road bikes going for exercise, everyday riders with school backpacks, and women in sun dresses sitting atop a bicycle.

Check out Lady Bird Hike and Bike Trail for an experience that you can only find in Austin. There, you can run, bike, or walk around Lady Bird Lake and see Austin from a different point of view. There are crossings at several different points including the Lamar Street Pedestrian Bridge (aka Pfluger Bridge),Congress Avenue, I-35 turnaround, or all the way to Longhorn Damn. Along the route, you can cross through Zilker Park and head over the pedestrian bridge by Barton Springs, go through Auditorium Shores’ Dog Park, and even stop for a view of the bats under the Congress Street Bridge. If kayaking is your thing, stop along the route between Lamar and Mopac on the North side and grab a kayak for an hour.  The Hike and Bike Trail is worth experiencing for the every day athlete or someone just wanting to get outside.

It’s necessary to have a car or know someone who has one in order to get out to Lake Travis. The real serious cyclists ride out there, but if you are not, don’t even attempt it. The hills won’t allow it. In the city, a free street car called the Dillo carries patrons around downtown and the surrounding areas, and it runs all day, everyday. Other than that, a bike can get you where you need to go, and so often does the trick for many residents. That’s one of the reasons Austin is always among the top 5 healthiest cities in the United States.

Wrapping It Up

Austin welcomes many visitors and potential residents from all over the United States and the world.It has become an outdoor playground for people of all ages and ability. Whether you want to check it out for a vacation or potentially move to Austin, your time is guaranteed to be enjoyable. With almost anything for anybody, Austin is the perfect place for a more fulfilling lifestyle or a relaxing weekend.

So, come play in Barton Springs, listen to great music, eat a variety of great cuisine, exercise on Town Lake (or the surrounding hike and bike trails) or just sit outside on a patio and enjoy the day.

But whatever you do, make sure and “keep Austin weird!”

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